Patterns Today: Paisley Through the Decades
From Ancient Persia to Modern Runways, few patterns carry as much history, symbolism, and adaptability as paisley. This swirling teardrop motif—decorative, intricate, and often colorful—has traveled and trended across continents and centuries.
From the looms of ancient Persia to the psychedelic counterculture of the 1960s, paisley is instantly recognizable and endlessly adaptable. Every few years, it has a way of sneaking back into the spotlight, and 2025 is shaping up to be one of those moments.
Ancient Origins
The paisley motif, also known as boteh or buta is believed to have originated in Persia during the Sasanian Empire.
Thought to represent a cypress tree or a floral spray, it carried meanings of life, growth, and fertility. Over time, it adorned royal robes, silks woven with gold thread, and ceremonial garments.
When the design reached Kashmir, artisans began weaving it into pashmina shawls — pieces so soft, intricate, and coveted that they became the must-have status symbol of Mughal emperors. By the 17th and 18th centuries, these shawls were making their way to Europe through the East India Company, and soon everyone from Parisian elites to British royalty wanted one.
When the British East India Company began trading in Kashmir shawls during the 17th and 18th centuries, European society was captivated. These shawls, often taking months to weave, became some of the most coveted fashion items of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. They were draped by royalty and aristocrats, prized for their softness and intricate motifs.
But the price was steep: a single Kashmir shawl could cost the equivalent of a house in Britain! Inevitably, European textile centers sought to imitate them. France (particularly Alsace), Wales, and Scotland began experimenting with ways to replicate the paisley motif at lower cost.
Paisley, Scotland: The Name Takes Hold
With demand skyrocketing, the Scottish town of Paisley became a hub for producing patterned shawls in the early 1800s. With innovations that allowed weavers to work in up to 15 colors, Paisley’s textile industry flooded the market with affordable versions of the once-rare Kashmir shawls.
By the mid-1800s, the pattern had become so closely associated with the town that the English-speaking world began calling the motif simply “paisley.”
Paisley weavers also pioneered printed versions, stamping the design onto cotton and wool squares. These precursors of the modern bandana made the print accessible to the middle class, cementing paisley’s place in everyday dress as well as in luxury fashion.
Symbolism and Adaptation
In South and Central Asia, the motif remained tied to ceremonial and religious dress, symbolizing fertility and eternity. In Europe, it acquired new layers of meaning, becoming shorthand for bohemianism, sophistication, and exoticism.
By the Victorian era, paisley was embraced by figures in the Aesthetic and Arts and Crafts movements. Oscar Wilde famously wore paisley smoking jackets, while Pre-Raphaelite painters depicted their sitters swathed in paisley shawls.
The pattern became a symbol of artistic rebellion against industrial uniformity.
Paisley and the Counterculture
By the 19th century, paisley had already picked up a bohemian aura. Think Oscar Wilde in a paisley smoking jacket or Pre-Raphaelite muses draped in richly patterned shawls. It symbolized a taste for the artistic, the exotic, and the unconventional.
Then came the 1960s. As Western culture embraced Eastern philosophy and psychedelic style, paisley was everywhere. The Beatles championed the print during their Indian-influenced period — John Lennon even had his Rolls Royce painted in paisley.
Paisley bandanas became counterculture staples, but also stuck around in workwear and country music, making the pattern one of the rare prints embraced across social groups. That didn't stop fashion houses from embracing the motif. Designers at Liberty of London produced swirling, kaledisoscopic variations, with labels like Biba and Yves Saint Laurent also using it in their collections.
The pattern, once a symbol of aristocratic taste, was now equally tied to rock ‘n’ roll, rebellion, and free love.
Meanwhile, in the U.S., paisley bandanas became a staple of working-class wear, from cowboys to country musicians like Willie Nelson. The motif’s universality — appearing in haute couture, hippie garb, and blue-collar workwear — spoke to its cultural elasticity.
Modern Reinventions
Paisley never disappeared after the 1970s. Designers like Etro in Italy made it a brand signature, using it in linings, scarves, and bold prints. In menswear, paisley ties became ubiquitous, a nod to the pattern’s fertility symbolism, with the motif often worn on the tie so as to point down the torso.
Pop culture kept paisley in the spotlight. Prince named his studio and label Paisley Park in the 1980s, cementing the motif as a symbol of flamboyant artistry. Bands like Oasis in the 1990s revived its rock swagger. In 2010, Azerbaijan’s Olympic team wore paisley trousers, and the motif has since appeared in global sporting and cultural events.
Today, paisley continues to cycle through fashion seasons, its adaptability remaining its greatest strength. This pattern is equally suited for a luxury silk scarf, a rugged bandana, or a psychedelic guitar.
Why Paisley Endures
Several factors explain paisley’s remarkable survival:
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Symbolism: As a motif, it has carried connotations of life, fertility, and eternity for centuries.
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Versatility: It can be minimal and modern, ornate and regal, bohemian, or psychedelic.
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Cultural Resonance: From Persian courts to Scottish looms to rock concerts, paisley adapts to the spirit of the era.
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Aesthetic Appeal: The organic curve of the motif softens sharp lines and pairs easily with both geometric patterns and solids.
Designer Veronica Etro described paisley as "central to Etro’s past, present and future." After all, she said it "symbolises the tree of life, the seed palm, thus fertility."
Pictured:
- Paisley Print Ruffle Sleeve Midi Dress by Umgee
- WEIV Men's Full Size Paisley Print Short Sleeve Button-Up Shirt Plus Size by Trendsi
Why Paisley Endures
Part of paisley’s magic is its versatility. It can look:
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Romantic and soft on a flowy blouse
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Polished and classic on a silk tie or scarf
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Boho-chic on a maxi dress
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Psychedelic and bold in neon colors and oversized motifs
Designers know this, which is why brands like Etro, Gucci, and Saint Laurent keep reinventing paisley for the modern wardrobe.
How to Style Paisley in 2025
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Start Small: If you’re new to paisley, try a scarf, headband, or blouse. Accessories are an easy way to introduce the print without committing to a full look.
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Play with Scale: A large-scale paisley feels bold and artistic, while smaller motifs give a delicate, romantic edge.
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Balance the Busy: Let paisley be the star by pairing it with solid neutrals — or double down with other prints (like polka dots or florals) if you love a maximalist mix.
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Transitional Power: A paisley dress works with sandals now, then layers beautifully under a leather jacket or oversized blazer come fall.
Paisley’s story is one of constant reinvention.
Born from Persian symbolism, refined in Kashmiri shawls, mass-produced in Scottish mills, embraced by artists and countercultures, and revived by fashion houses, the motif continues to embody both history and freshness.
Pictured–
What began as a stylized cypress tree has become a global icon — proof that a simple teardrop, endlessly reimagined, can carry centuries of meaning across time, place, and style.
Shop Casual Chic Luxe today and find your paisley pattern pairing for timeless pizazz.
